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From Beirut to London in 100 Dishes

From Beirut to London in 100 Dishes

keeping my arab heritage alive through food

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Beirut in my soul

August 27, 2020 by samara cuisine

There have been enough words.  What happened in Beirut was like the full force of a nightmare we had only glimpsed in flashes through all the decades of violence, instability and loss suddenly shaking itself fully to life and sheering up phantasmagorically above the sea to wreak its curse across the city.   Out of such horror it can only be hoped that something positive can emerge.  Long odds on that I know but what else can you do – and […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture

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Lockdown Lebanese Essential Indulgence

June 24, 2020 by samara cuisine

Comfort food is needed in uncomfortable times.  Being confined to my house during the pandemic returned me to the teenager I once was when war made stepping outside too dangerous.  Now – just as then – I took refuge in sweet, simple food – recipes that puzzled me even as the best way to enjoy them was just to go to the shops and buy them readymade.  I am talking about basics – bread, hummus, za’atar, syrupy sweets and even […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: Beirut, hummus, lockdown, shakshoukeh, turkish delight

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the green crown (stuffed courgettes)

April 5, 2020 by samara cuisine

The smell of meat is in my house — lamb shanks that are halal, the lack of blood reminding me of what put me off when I was young.  It’s the hottest day this year.  Everyone has been told to stay inside – driving through the streets that clearly isn’t the case.  Perfect timing if ever there was, my mother-in-law edging to ninety, fell in the street three weeks ago and broke her hip, putting her in hospital for a […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture

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sheibiyat – street cries and the hill of orphans

March 28, 2019 by samara cuisine

I‘m afraid this is another memory of how I have been a captive of my sweet tooth from as early as I can remember.  For all its noise and chaos, Beirut has always been a temptress to those who are weak when it comes to syrupy, sugary indulgence. I remember just as the war was starting in the mid 1970s, my hardworking and hard-pressed parents used to deposit my sister and me during the school holidays with my formidable grandma […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture

1

the itunes dictator

April 6, 2018 by samara cuisine

I have many grave concerns That prey upon my mind To hold firm or give way To fail my father’s memory   A statue of dark rectitude Rising instead of the sun Such unbending driven will And me? Just temporary… Until I can play the dark lord As well as any teenage geek But really pulverize the fools Till they embrace submission   My love am I the man I was? They’re killing in my name Burning it to blubber […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture

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you can’t go home again – 1960s Lebanon

February 1, 2018 by samara cuisine

I came late to the party in Lebanon and to the wrong address. I was born in the 1960s when Beirut was a flourishing cosmopolitan city with an exciting touch of the exotic, but I grew up as it fell apart in the 1970s and the 1980s. Not that I would have known much about those halcyon days. My parents and I, swiftly followed by my sister, slept in one room in a small apartment a minute’s walk away from […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, Lebanese recipes, memory and culture, memory and culture • Tags: 1960s jetset, Beirut, hamra

4

red lights and green lines — more street food with mana’ish

January 22, 2016 by samara cuisine

I‘ve recently been working with a cafe near where I live in London.  It’s in a charming little cobbled street that leads to the Thames.  The best seller is the soft Lebanese pizza — mana’ish, topped with cheese, meat or thyme.  That’s jibneh, lahim bil ajeen and zaatar to give them their proper Arab names.  And just writing them reminds me of a very different street in Beirut where my family used to get its own warm, fresh mana’ish.    It […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, Lebanese recipes, memory and culture, memory and culture, recipes • Tags: Beirut, Georgina Rizk, Miss Lebanon, street food, zaitounay bay

1

moufatka – the ugly duckling of Lebanese puddings

November 2, 2015 by samara cuisine

There’s no way around this.  It’s no beauty.  In fact it’s downright ugly.  Maybe it’s the colour — a rather ill-looking brown — or the texture.  But moufatka dares you to like it.  That may be one reason why you don’t find it in Lebanese restaurants.  This is very much a dish that you make at home and bring out on special occasions.  But that’s what makes it such a treat for those who see past its unfortunate looks.  Even […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes • Tags: Beirut, lebanon, pudding, twickenham, world cup rugby 2015

7

Araa wa batinjan mahsi — season of harvests

October 30, 2015 by samara cuisine

The smell of wood smoke at night, mist on the water meadows at dawn and strange suburban trees heavy with incongruous fruit — that’s what the season of harvests means to me here and now.  It’s been a good year with plenty of sun and rain.  My small garden is witness to it.  A lemon tree that has struggled through two winters has produced large and succulent fruit.  I hesitate to pick the lemons as I don’t know when or […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes • Tags: aubergine, Beirut, Bekaa, harvest, lebanon, marrow

1

flayfleh mahshiyeh (stuffed peppers) – or the time of ghosts

October 29, 2015 by samara cuisine

The time of ghosts is almost upon us.  Halloween and All Souls Day.  It’s one of the gravest times of year — when autumn begins to turn towards winter.  In London, we have slate grey skies and speckles of rain.  The clouds look like an utterly endless, empty sea — the cold Atlantic, not the Mediterranean I grew up beside.  When I was a child in Lebanon, we didn’t have Halloween celebrations.  We had a day almost a month later, […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes • Tags: Beirut, halloween, lebanon, recipe, stuffed peppers

1

Awwamat ( Lebanese honey balls) — or you stink so sweetly

August 30, 2015 by samara cuisine

(To mark the protests in Beirut, I am providing a recipe over-ripe with sweetness to counter the sour smell on the streets from all the uncollected rubbish.  But first here is a little essay on the protests that my husband was asked to write…) Summer in Beirut is more often than not a victory of hope over experience. Hotels and restaurants gear up for what they pray will be  a substantial temporary homecoming from Lebanon’s sentimental diaspora. And tens of […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes • Tags: awwamat, beirut protests, youstink

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sharab al tout (mulberry syrup) — the memory of stains

August 30, 2015 by samara cuisine

The summer may almost be past now here in London.  But that means it’s getting to be a good time to go foraging again.  The mulberry tree next to the walled garden in the meadow behind our house looks like it won’t be providing anything like the fruit it once did.  I remember my excitement when I first discovered it — forgotten in a lost clearing of overgrown nettles and unruly shrubs.  But a friend told me about another tree […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: mulberry, mulberry tree, Staines

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Namoura — or abdel halim and lou reed in beirut

March 23, 2015 by samara cuisine

What is the soundtrack of a city?  In Beirut, it’s probably the clanging and drilling of construction workers eternally raising up new high rises.  It’s a kind of music that starts early in the morning and doesn’t let up all day.  It’s the heartbeat of the city, as much as the traffic and the hooting and the thumping from late night discos and hotels, not to mention the calls from the muezzin competing on Sunday with church bells. The cacophony […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes • Tags: Beirut, david bowie, john cale, johnny hallyday, lou reed, soundtrack

1

aish al saraya – or the bread of the palace

March 7, 2015 by samara cuisine

Much of what I cook comes out with a twist simply because of my impatience.  Some people cook like musicians following every note on the page.  For me, it’s always been about playing by ear.  If something catches my fancy, I want to make it immediately without getting caught up in detail about measurements and traditions.  I just want to get it on a plate and see what happens.  I first started doing this when I was a child in […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: Beirut, bread crumbs, lebanon, Ottoman Empire

5

Mouhalabieh – or the illusion of authenticity

February 27, 2015 by samara cuisine

I am realising as I write this blog how so many of the dishes we have in Lebanon are repetitions and variations on a theme shared across the Middle East.  That’s especially true of our puddings.  You could probably trace the history and foreign influences on Lebanon by methodically making your way through them. One of the puddings I mentioned earlier when I was writing about Layali Lubnan and Moughli was Mouhalabiyeh.  My father used to eat it while I […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: lebanon, souk

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Mughrabieh – or anamona

February 19, 2015 by samara cuisine

So.  I’ve been living in England for what is half my life now.  But I wouldn’t call myself British.  I am not going to start putting up recipes for Sunday roasts or a full English here.  When the latest horrors happened in Paris, at least one of my friends seemed to get the wrong end of the stick and started posting on Facebook: Je Suis Lebanese.  I don’t think that made sense in any way.  But I guess it felt […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: Beirut, family name, personal identity

1

Shourbat al adass al ahmar — or the warmth of home

January 17, 2015 by samara cuisine

Tonight we are expecting the temperature to go down to minus two.  No snow yet, sadly.  But I have brought in a lemon tree from the garden, hoping to save the fruit that grew on it this summer.  An angel trumpet bush is also coming in, although its lavishly fragrant flowers fell several weeks ago.  Its narcotic leaves used to keep our white rabbit happy. Fires can be lit and the warmest of comfort food prepared — thick soups and […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: Lebanese mountains, lemon tree, red lentils, Syrian refugees

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Daoud Basha — or growing up in the shadow of the Holiday Inn

December 22, 2014 by samara cuisine

It sticks up like a scarred and angry finger into the sky.  It was a frightening shape always on the edge of my very limited world when I was growing up.  But strangely enough, it was also protective in a way.  It provided a kind of shelter for us in our sixth floor apartment from the rockets and shells and tracer fire coming towards us from East Beirut during the war.  So, I owe the Holiday Inn at least a […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: Beirut, Holiday Inn

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kibbeh batata — or keeping a light burning

December 1, 2014 by samara cuisine

There are songs about love in every form — lost, unrequited, blind and all embracing — and there are songs about the other big subjects — death, loss and the many glories of life that somehow slip through all the bad stuff.   Sabah — who died last week — sang about most of them.  But the song of hers I liked the most was about potatoes — well, not really about potatoes but about living the simple life and not […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: dabke, kibbeh, sabah

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sabah — or my family’s brush with fame

November 26, 2014 by samara cuisine

One of my family’s few brushes with real fame was with Sabah, the great Lebanese singer and actress who has just died.  The connection was through one of my cousins, a writer, actor and theatre director, called Wasim.  Sabah may have been adored for her wonderful, passionate, keening voice, but she was also notorious for her many marriages.  And Wasim was one of her nine husbands — number four or five, I think. One of the most vivid memories from […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: damascus, jumblatt, sabah, tabbara

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shakshoukeh — or waiting for winter

November 15, 2014 by samara cuisine

Outside tonight here on the edge of London by the Thames, we are deep into November and it’s eight degrees.  I notice that it’s 19 degrees in Beirut.  The difference is here we are still waiting for winter, while in Lebanon, you can simply drive straight up into the mountains and you can have a quick shot of all the winter you want.  For years, everyone here has been trying to persuade me of the glory of having four real […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: Bekaa, shakshoukeh, winter recipe

2

ameh maslouk — or a toast to what’s lost and what remains

October 27, 2014 by samara cuisine

My husband, Seb, tells me it was another beautiful Beirut morning — still springlike, not too hot or humid.  To me, it would have been nothing special.  I was getting ready for just another day at the university, another day with a little part of my mind given over to where it was ok to go and where it wasn’t, but nothing very strong as at that time, things had gone relatively quiet for us, the native Beirutis.  I don’t […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: AUB, hezbollah, hostage, lebanese pudding

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Barazik — or a tea that never happened

October 16, 2014 by samara cuisine

There are meals you never had, but which you wish had happened.  I imagined when I was learning and practicing recipes in Beirut in my teens that I would serve them at various occasions that were never very likely, not just because I was a girl and had little freedom to invite anyone home but also because the war made any such gestures all but out of the question.  One thing I would like to have done, but that was […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture • Tags: American University of Beirut, Beirut, brian keenan, hostage, kidnap, Rafik Hariri

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tagine bil khodar — or discovering the arab world a little late

October 6, 2014 by samara cuisine

I was born in the Arab world, but I knew almost nothing of it as I was growing up.  Aside from Beirut and the Bekaa valley, I hardly knew anything of my own tiny sliver of that world in Lebanon.  As I’ve mentioned before, I had the misfortune and privilege of living right smack in the middle of history.  My vantage point was from our sixth floor apartment in Ras Beirut, looking down one way towards the sea and the other […]

Categories: Lebanese recipes, memory and culture

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